Tastings by tram essential in South Africa’s 336-year-old wine region

There’s no designated driver required in full-bodied Franschhoek, an easy side trip from Cape Town.

By Chris Ashton, February 28 2024
Tastings by tram essential in South Africa’s 336-year-old wine region

South Africa has a long, rich history of wine making. The first bottle is said to have been produced in 1659 – as a way of warding off scurvy in sailors.

It was no doubt rather basic, but in the centuries since, quality’s skyrocketed and the country sits proudly among the world’s elite producers.

Stellenbosch, Paarl and Constantia are arguably its most well-known wine regions. Yet, over the last few decades, the small but significant town of Franschhoek has overtaken them as the country’s most full-bodied gourmet getaway.

Great wines, majestic scenery and heritage architecture, together with a divine luxury hotel and dining scene, have transformed the once-sleepy town into what many describe as the “food and wine capital” of South Africa. Yet, it almost didn’t happen.

Settled by Dutch migrants and French Huguenot refugees in 1688, who brought knowledge and expertise harvested from the great wine regions of Europe, Franschhoek flourished thanks to its temperate climate and superior wine growing conditions.

Plaisir is just one of the region's phenomenal wine estates.
Plaisir is just one of the region's phenomenal wine estates.

In the 1980s, though, the town had lost much of its heritage charm and was on the cusp of redevelopment as a retirement hub. Recognising the need for action, the council established an aesthetics committee and set about beautifying the town and crafting a village atmosphere.

The efforts paid off and the town soon attracted people in search of a quality lifestyle.

Today, Franschhoek is home to over 100 accommodation options and a plethora of wineries producing superb whites such as Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon and Chenin Blanc, as well as full-bodied reds including Shiraz, Merlot, Cabernet and Pinot Noir.

Its location in the Western Cape Winelands, less than an hour from Cape Town, has been vital to its success – a sheltered position between three mountains, diverse terroir and climate combining to produce perfect growing conditions.

Mont Rochelle Hotel & Vineyard, part of Sir Richard Branson’s award-winning ‘Virgin Limited Edition’ stable, is one of the local wineries taking full advantage of these goldilocks conditions.

The terrace view from Mont Rochelle's Loft Suite.
The terrace view from Mont Rochelle's Loft Suite.

On top of seven different soil types, its location between 250 and 400m above sea level means grapes are exposed to a range of micro climates; dry summers and high winter rainfalls. This results in top-notch Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Of course, it’s not the only vineyard worth seeking out if you’re in town.

The Franschhoek Wine Tram – a hop-on hop-off experience allowing you to create your own custom wine tasting odyssey – is a fantastic way of discovering the region’s wares.

This double-decker tram is a quintessential part of the Franschhoek experience.
This double-decker tram is a quintessential part of the Franschhoek experience.

The tracks it operates on were originally built back in 1904, before being restored in 2012. There are now five lines to choose from, utilising a mix of the open-air tram and a tram bus. 

These are some of the essential stops. 

Boschendal

Founded in 1685, Boschendal is among the true icons of Franschhoek. Everyone who visits the town stops at the vineyard at least once, while those in the know also book in for a night or two in its exquisite cottages, suites and retreats. 

It offers more than just wining and dining too. After sampling top drops like Blanc de Noir, Chardonnay and Merlot, travellers can set out on foot for picnics amid the vines, and even explore its winding trails by horseback or mountain bike. 

Boscendal is a working farm, winery and dining mecca, plus the accommodation is great too.
Boscendal is a working farm, winery and dining mecca, plus the accommodation is great too.

Mont Rochelle

Spanning 39 beautiful hectares, Mont Rochelle is Sir Richard Branson’s destination of choice when in the Franschhoek region. One look at the charming manor house explains why, yet it’s not just the luxe surroundings that make it worth visiting.

The winery – under the skilled guidance of winemaker Michael Langenhoven – has picked up a slew of awards over the years for its Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc and Shiraz, while its cellar door building dating from the 1850s is also listed as a National Heritage site.

A sweeping view to the manor at Mont Rochelle.
A sweeping view to the manor at Mont Rochelle.

Holden Manz Wine Estate

More than just a tasting room, Holden Manz Estate is a complete retreat boasting a five star hotel, spa and restaurant. Within are five spacious suites affording views of the lawns and valley, and adorned in an impressive South African art collection. 

Its wines are absolutely worth travelling for too, with the estate notable for its Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Picnic lunches amid the vines are a perfect way to further elevate your visit. 

Holden Manz spans 22 hectares, of which 16 are under vineyards.
Holden Manz spans 22 hectares, of which 16 are under vineyards.

Plaisir Wine Estate

Situated at the foot of the Simonsberg Mountain, between Paarl and Franschhoek, Plaisir has a wine making legacy stretching back more than 300 years. Tastings take place in the old barn – built in 1823 and overlooking the mountains and adjoining valley.

Today, under winemaker Fred Fismer, is a go-to for great Chardonnay, Merlot and Chenin Blanc, not to mention the gin lounge, which offers paired meals to go with your tipple of choice.

The suites at Plaisir are worth checking into.
The suites at Plaisir are worth checking into.

Grande Provence

As its name suggests, Grande Provence is ‘grand’ in every way. Its setting, spanning 47-acres framed by mountains and gazing across the valley floor, is enchanting, while its 325 year history has created an ambience and wine making pedigree that’s hard to beat.

Among those worth raising a glass of are Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, in addition to flagship release ‘The Amphora’. The straw-coloured delivers a heady mix of honey, myrrh and stewed apples, with a dry finish that lingers on the palate.

Numerous sculptures are dotted throughout the landscaped gardens.
Numerous sculptures are dotted throughout the landscaped gardens.

Of course, once you’ve eaten and drunk your fill of the regional delights, there’s plenty to hold your attention, from Franschhoek Motor Museum to the beautiful Mont Rochelle Nature Reserve – a must for avid hikers. 

17 Sep 2015

Total posts 388

South Africa (and the rest of Africa) are off my visiting list due to crime and general safety concerns.

A female South African farmer we met in another country a few years ago said 'go soon, as the situation is deteriorating every day.'

Her prediction has become true, with electricity blackouts adding to the problems.


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