Business traveller downtime: unwind over a long weekend in Noumea

By David Flynn, September 7 2018
Business traveller downtime: unwind over a long weekend in Noumea

Like anybody else, hard-working journalists need time away – time out – from the daily grind. Ideally, that means clocking off for a week or even two, but sometimes the most you can carve out of your schedule is a long weekend.

That means keeping your travels short in order to maximise your downtime, and so for something a bit different – and admittedly sparked by a Qantas sale – I drew a line through my diary and booked two nights in Noumea, which lies barely two hours from Sydney.

As the capital of New Caledonia, a far-flung tropical outpost of France, Noumea is a unique melange of French/European and native Kanak influences in food, culture and the way of life.

I’d never been to Noumea and have rarely travelled to any relaxing island destinations for that matter – I prefer the buzz of a big city to your typical ‘flop and drop’ destination.

Happily, Noumea doesn’t have to be that – unless you want it to. But it’s definitely a place to throttle back, leave work behind and enjoy the simple delights of beachside strolls and a good book.

Getting there

Qantas flies from Sydney to Noumea three days a week (Saturday, Sunday and Monday) on a Boeing 737, and codeshares with Aircalin's Airbus A330 service on Tuesday through Friday.

I flew Qantas business class, heading out on QF91 at 7.40am on a Saturday and arriving into Noumea at 11.30, and returned on Monday’s QF92 (a 12.30pm departure which landed in Sydney at 2.50pm).

The Arc en Ciel shuttle bus takes you from Noumea's La Tontouta airport to the city and all major hotels for 3,000 South Pacific Francs (abbreviated XPF or CFP; 100XPF = A$1.35) per person, although you'll have to wait until all the passengers from your flight have boarded the bus. A faster way is to book a driver in advance for around 12,000 Francs.

Where to stay

I decided to book two nights at the Le Mériden Resort & Spa, which is located at the southern tip of Noumea on Anse Vata Bay and surrounded by lush landscaped gardens.

My Voyageur suite was not only spacious but smartly designed and finished, with a long verandah overlooking the pool and through to the ocean.

The Classic rooms are of course smaller but still well-designed, and also include a verandah with a view over the gardens or across the lagoon.

Deckchairs and cabanas flank the pool, with the open-air Le Fare restaurant - ideal for a light lunch – positioned between the pool and the beach.

After an exceptionally busy week, stretching out on a deckchair with a book and sometimes just tuning out with the help of some Spotify playlists (the hotel’s free WiFi reaches all the way to the beach) proved the perfect antidote.

Where to eat

One of the reasons I chose the Le Mériden was its location, which put Baie Des Citrons (which translates as Lemon Bay) a 30 minute stroll away.

This long sweeping bay is home to scores of great cafes, restaurants and bars, and many people delight in buying take-away and sit on the beach or at tables on the grassy verge.

On my first night I enjoyed dinner at La Fiesta – a Spanish restaurant at the far end of Baie Des Citrons' Promenade Roger Laroque and clearly favoured by locals – tucking into fried whitebait, paella and sangria.

If you’re strolling around the bay of a daytime or early evening, the Amorino gelateria (27 Promenade Roger Laroque) makes some of the most naturally flavoursome gelato you’ll ever taste.

Noumea boasts plenty of fine-dining restaurants from Baie Des Citrons through to the township itself, including Marmite et Tire-Bouchon (on the waterfront at Rue Jules Garnier, halfway to 'downtown' Noumea) and Chez Toto, in the Latin Quarter (at 13 Rue Auguste Brun) – although don't overlook the nearby Boop's Café for brunch, lunch or a relaxed dinner.

What to do: Catching up on sleep and enjoying leisurely breakfasts were both high on my to-do list, and the Le Mériden was the ideal place for both.

Head into the town for the markets at Port Moselle – just don't expect too much – and then stroll around the town a little bit.

The Aquarium of the Lagoons is ideal for spending another hour playing tourist, followed by lunch or more gelato at nearby Baie Des Citrons or Anse Vata Bay, with sunsets atop Quen Toro Hill – 15 minutes’ walk from the Le Mériden – letting you share the atmosphere with locals and tourists alike.

Add some pooltime and/or beachtime, and that’s your long weekend in Noumea pretty much sorted and your psychological batteries recharged.

David Flynn travelled at his own expense.


David Flynn is the Editor-in-Chief of Executive Traveller and a bit of a travel tragic with a weakness for good coffee, shopping and lychee martinis.

Qantas - Qantas Frequent Flyer

02 Jan 2015

Total posts 71

Perfect timing for this review. Heading to Noumea AFL Grand final weekend

24 Apr 2014

Total posts 272

It’s an interesting place, so utterly French but yet so close to Australia.

02 Jun 2013

Total posts 55

Beautiful but VERY expensive

Qantas - Qantas Frequent Flyer

04 Mar 2014

Total posts 204

Agreed, most expensive place i have been, and not good quality for it either

Qantas - Qantas Frequent Flyer

28 Dec 2011

Total posts 95

Been twice to LeMeridian Noumea, and I truly love it. The food is excellent and you can eat outside of the resort. Something that I would not recommend doing in Fiji, not if you want to continue enjoying your holiday. There is also a golf resort holiday complex on New Caledonia as well. On the point at LeMeridian there are Helicopter rides over the island which I do recommend.

La Nouvelle-Caledonie est parfaite et le golf est encore meilleur.

24 Oct 2010

Total posts 2551

Dale: yes, something I wanted very much to avoid in Noumea was that totally-isolated ‘resort’ where you almost have no choice but to spend all your time there, which is why I really appreciated the proximity of the Le Meridien to those bays.

Virgin Australia - Velocity Rewards

24 Aug 2011

Total posts 783

Completely agree. We love New Caledonia. Highly underrated, and hopefully the upcoming referendum sees them staying with France.

06 Dec 2017

Total posts 111

I am wondering ex Adelaide via Brisbane over but flying via Sydney to get home. how the schedule would cope.Am thinking about air for sometime in the future for a week over Christmas air/land holiday.Its 1 of my favorite destinations and I think it deserves more justice than doing it as a one day stop on a cruise.

Delta Air Lines - SkyMiles

16 Oct 2017

Total posts 156

If you haven't been before: drive time from the airport to the hotel and v.v. is approx one hour.


Qantas - Qantas Frequent Flyer

13 Aug 2016

Total posts 16

Sounds like a great idea for short break. From Melbourne, the direct (4 hr) flights with Air Calin are on an A320. Wondering if it is worth the the extra for business class? Has anyone here done that?

18 Sep 2018

Total posts 9

I love Noumea. It does help if you speak a bit of French.

One other attraction is authentic French hypermarkets (with subsidised/French mainland prices). Think great value French wine you cannot find in Australia, and huge cans of duck confit which you can just about get through Australian customs.
[Note I think translating Baie Des Citrons ("Lemon Bay") might just confuse people]

Air New Zealand - Airpoints

08 Aug 2014

Total posts 39

David, it’s Baie des Citrons, s’il vous plait. Love New Caledonia - it’s one of my favourite places and “Instant France”, just over two and a half hours away. The area where you stayed is like the French Riviera meets the South Pacific. :)

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