How to experience Hong Kong like a local
On your next visit to the Asian metropolis, put aside that ‘Top Ten’ list and discover a different side to Hong Kong.
Here at Executive Traveller, we never tire of visiting Hong Kong. And like everyone else, we’re always up for adding the delightful discovery of new hangouts to our list of familiar haunts.
That’s where locals can unlock the labyrinth of this dazzling destination.
So we asked two Australians who’ve made their home in Hong Kong to share some first-hand recommendations you won’t find in your typical Hong Kong guide.
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That unique Hong Kong vibe
Already a regular visitor to the city, Australian Martin Eber – who balances his work in finance with running the popular Time for Whisky blog – said “I just had this feeling about the place that I didn’t get anywhere else.”
“It was so vibrant and constantly on-the-go, there was always something for everyone, no matter what you’re into – and it’s safe as well.”
“So we moved to Hong Kong in 2014, ended up starting a family and staying 11 years.”
For Sydney-born chef Adam Cliff, Hong Kong was the culmination of his years cooking at Bangkok’s Michelin-starred Nahm, followed by Chachawan, Hong Kong's first Isaan Thai restaurant.
Lines now form outside Cliff’s three Samsen restaurants – at Wan Chai, Central and Sheung Wan – to enjoy a contemporary take on the bold flavours of Thai street food.
(The Wagyu beef boat noodles are a must-order, as much for rich, deeply flavoured sauce coating the thin rice noodles as for the sliced beef and meatballs).
Eber and Cliff both agree that Sheung Wan and nearby Sai Ying Pun are down-to-earth neighbourhoods worth exploring by those stepping out of the ‘comfort zones’ around Central, Wan Chai and Tsim Sha Tsui (locally known as “TST”).
Some of Hong Kong’s oldest streets are shared by working-class residential blocks, laid-back eateries, and hip hide-away bars.
“Sheung Wan is still relatively residential, but there’s still a lot going on,” Cliff reflects.
“Sai Ying Pun is up and coming, but then it’s been up and coming for a decade” he laughs.
“But they’ve got a real vibe to them, and because the rent is still relatively cheap compared to the rest of Hong Kong, you get a lot of newer, independent restaurants going in there, restaurants which don't have the financial backing of the big groups that dominate the SoHo area.”
Eber notes the rise in “restobars” – a casual bar and restaurant combination with a relaxed, social atmosphere – typified by Call Me AL, his favourite haunt in the winding streets of Sheung Wan, with a hearty menu of “polished but unpretentious” dishes.
Dining in Hong Kong like a local
“A yum cha lunch is a must for anyone visiting Hong Kong”, Cliff cheerfully admits.
“My favourite spot is Ship Kee in Wan Chai” he says, citing the Michelin Bib Gourmand-rated restaurant in the bustling Hopewell Centre hub at Queen's Road East.
“The food is great, the ambience is lively, and it won’t break the bank.”
Eber suggests City Hall Maxim’s Palace, near Central, which pairs some of the best yum cha you’ll ever eat (“especially the har gow”) with views across the Harbour.
“The wait can stretch to over an hour, but if you download the Gulu app and take a virtual ticket before you leave your hotel (allowing 45-60 minutes beforehand, during peak time), Eber shares, “by the time you turn up, hopefully your number will be almost up!”
Cliff also shares Kiu’s Kitchen in Wan Chai as somewhere he not only takes guests, but visits himself “at least once or twice a month.”
“You can’t miss the claypot flat noodles with crab, although I ask them to change the crab to prawn because who actually enjoys picking through crabs at the table?”
“I also love the stir-fried lettuce with shrimp paste, and dried prawns and pork. And with no corkage fee, you’re welcome to BYO drinks.”
And sampling Cantonese-style roast meat in Hong Kong is simply not to be missed.
Joy Hing Roasted Meat at Wan Chai remains a favourite of locals and ex-pats alike, but Cliff admits to being “a huge fan of Chukfo Taipan”, in the Wan Chai Market on Triangle Street.
“All the meats are great, of course, and the English menus make it very accessible to non-Chinese speakers.”
And while Central’s Michelin-starred Yat Lok “gets most of the attention,” Eber says, “Kam’s Roast Goose at Wan Chai is definitely deserving. Whether you go for the famous roast goose, or (my pick) the char siu, you’ll get flavours you’ll struggle to find elsewhere.”
Hiking in Hong Kong
Of course, there’s more to Hong Kong than bustling streets and the buzz of restaurants and bars.
“Hiking is a surprisingly big part of Hong Kong culture,” Eber notes, while Samsen’s Cliff rates Hong Kong as “one of the best cities in the world for hiking.”
“One minute you’re in the city, then half an hour later you’re hiking a trail or climbing a mountain.”
“It’s a great activity to do in the morning before the day gets too hot, and it also clears room for your Yum Cha lunch!”
A hike around The Peak remains the convenient option for most people, while the picturesque Dragon’s Back trail stuns with panoramic views across the South China Sea. But Eber recommends the Maclehose Trail for those who relish a challenge. “The full trail stretches 100km right across Hong Kong, split into ten sections.” “Section 1 offers beaches and coastal views, Section 2 is incredible vistas, and Section 6 is all about monkeys, monkeys and more monkeys!” (Just do plenty of research beforehand, as some sections have to be walked in tandem because there are no transport options between them.) Cliff also recommends taking a ferry from Central to visit the outlying islands, which “offer a glimpse of the older, more traditional Hong Kong.” Lamma Island is just a 30-minute ferry ride from Central. “Pack your swimming costume and after a mid-morning dip, have lunch at one of the local seafood restaurants – my personal go-to is The Lamma Mandarin Seafood restaurant.” Eber suggests adding Cheung Chau to the list, then hiring a bike for a scenic ride around the island – “if you’re feeling brave, and not at all claustrophobic, seek out the Cheung Po Tsai Cave ‘pirate cave’.” Who better to reveal hidden gems of the Hong Kong bar scene than one of the world’s leading whisky bloggers? “One thing that I love about Hong Kong bars and bartenders is that they’re not just trying to replicate the experience of a New York bar or a London bar,” Eber explains. “They're putting a local spin on things, on the ingredients and flavours and presentation.” Here, then, are Eber’s own top picks for a uniquely and memorable HK tipple. Club Qing: located in the traditionally party district of Lan Kwai Fong, Club Qing is about as far from an LKF bar as you can get. Hidden away 10 floors up, with muted jazz music, it evokes a quiet, composed Japanese bar, with a collection to match that’s split between vintage Scotch, Japanese whisky, and independently bottled whisky. The Diplomat: think ‘elevated diner’ with fantastic, inventive cocktails, a burger to die for, and a sound system that has to be a contender for most impressive in Asia. The Diplomat’s John Nugent is also behind Cardinal Point, one of the city’s best rooftop bars. House Welley Bar: run by some legends of the local whisky scene, House Welley Bar specialises in distillery exclusives, independent bottles and rare single casks. The Savoury Project: from the team behind Coa, which has taken home Asia’s Best Bar Award more than once), the focus here is savoury cocktails, and they’re truly unique – the Thai Beef Salad cocktail is a must-try! For a change of pace, Eber brings visitors to the West Kowloon Cultural District, which locals have already abbreviated to ‘WestK’. “M+ is a sculpturally-incredible modern art museum filled with thought-provoking artwork” and serves as a counterpoint to the more traditional Hong Kong Palace Museum, Eber explains. And don’t overlook the simple pleasure of a stroll through the open green of the Art Park, with a winding waterfront promenade offering views across Victoria Harbour to the island. “On a nice day, you can just sit and unwind on the grass, watching the world and watercraft go by.” And across the harbour, Eber highlights the artsy, gentrified PoHo neighbourhood – just above Sheung Wan, and encompassing Po Hing Fong and Tai Ping Shan – as “well worth a visit for cool cafes, art galleries, boutiques and usually something new that’s popped up since you last visited.” Discover Hong Kong with Cathay Pacific’s special Stopover Deal. Experience an unforgettable Hong Kong stopover of up to seven days when you fly to your pick of over 100 destinations* worldwide on the Cathay network. This article was produced in collaboration with Hong Kong Tourism Board. *Currently flown by The Cathay Group (Cathay Pacific & HK Express)
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